Thursday, July 3, 2014

a few simple models and design for embroidered rings

to finish the embrodered rings tutorial, lets look at a few simple models.

if you missed it, the tutorial to make these rings, step by step, is right here.

This is the first model we made.  8 segments,  always stitching in one direction.

If we use an odd number of segments, like 7 in this example,  the second round of stitching (or the second part of a double-round )  cross over the first, giving us some big fish scales shapes.
Seven segments, 1 starting point.

Starting  with the same 7 segments , we can use the cross-over point to find the middle of each segment. An imaginary line there will give us an additional marking spots at each segment.

7 segments, 2 starting points.  Small fish scales.

Going back to 8 segments ring.  This time we have 2 starting points - each to a different side.  Stitch one round to the right, then start another thread and stitch to the left.
(how to stitch to the  left? Either do exactly the oppisite of stitching right, or just turn the ring upside-down !)

using the same 8 segments, adding 2 starting points on the un-used markers ...


i've pinned a  few more rings for inspiration, have fun experimenting !
linking to show and tell

Wednesday, July 2, 2014

wip wednesday

busy week, and not much sewing done.
i made a meshwork pillowtop for my son.  added some free motion quilting around it, then (knowing my boy) went back to secure all the meshwork lines with some hidden stitches.

 i'm stuck with the back of this pillow. not sure yet how to combine those pièces into one.
a new  hexagon quilt is in progress. i'm not sure how it will look in the end -  making it up from scraps as i go.
also, starting a huge hand project like this, just two weeks before getting a (surprise!) new sewing machine is... meh.

the tutorial to my embrodered rings is all up, and that's the main reason why i did so little sewing this week. 
linking to wip wednesday

Monday, June 30, 2014

tutorial - embrodered rings , part 4

welcome back. This is the last part of making the first ring ( part 5 of the tutorial will deal with some simple design elements). I hope your base is ready and 8 segments are marked around it.
             part 1 - materials
part 2 - making the base 
part 3 - marking    
Place your needle around the middle of the ring, just under one marker point . Pass the needle (and thread) under the layer of yarn, coming out at the end of the yarn, between the yarn and the fabric.
  Pull on the thread, leaving a short tail sticking out of the yarn.  Leave the tail there and don’t snip it off yet (the tail is useful for A. pulling the first stitch into place, and    B. letting you know where the stitching round began). 
Now, stick your needle into the fabric edge, coming on the other side. Don’t nick the paper layer underneath. Pass the thread around the needle and pull the stitch.  Pull on the thread and the end tail to place the stitch nice and tight.
Find the next marker point to the right. Stick the needle into place; pass the thread around the needle and pull.  Tighten the stitch into place by pulling the thread a few times in different directions and move on to the next stitch (be careful not to deform the ring by pulling too tight).
Coming around a full circle and back to the first stitch you made, place the next stitch just to the right of the first stitch, touching them close together, but not one on top of the other. 

If you’re using a multicolor thread, like me, just continue stitching around, adoring yourself until you run out of thread, then start again.  If you’re using different color – start thinking about when to change them.   Pay attention to the way the threads are laying one along the other.
Finishing off a thread:
Finishing up a round, lay the tread along the previous ones, as if making the next stitch, but instead of sticking into the fabric, stich your needle into the yarn.  Make a few simple stitches into the yarn securing the end in place and cut off.
Almost finished:
When you get to the stage when you have only a few millimeters of stitches to fill, start paying attention to the inconsistencies in the remaining spaces. Some gaps will be bigger, while others will require fewer stitches to fill. 
As you can see, the gap at the top is a little smaller the the other.  Catching those differences early, you can repair them by placing your stitches a bit farther apart or a bit closer together.
 congratulation! your first ring is ready!  it's time to think about all the outfits in your closet... all those beautiful colored clothes... they all need a ring to complemet them . what are you waiting for? make another!

Thank you for joining me and don't forget to show off your amazing new rings !
any questions ? anything not clear? i would love to hear from you !

Sunday, June 29, 2014

tutorial - embrodered rings , part 3

Partitioning and marking segments

 welcome back to the embrodered ring tutorial. this is the last part of preparing the base - making equal parts around the ring.
part 1 - materials

part 2 - making the base 

We’re going to start with a simple design (I will upload a few more ideas later).


For this model, we need to place 8 markers, evenly spaced around the ring.


Take a strip of simple printer paper (even better - recycle some printout / letter / whatever), cut a stripe of just under 0.5 inch width.

Wrap the paper around the ring (you can do that while the rind is one the mold) and cut the paper exactly the size of the ring. 
Take the paper off and mark 8 equal segments. 

Of course, you can place the partition to 8 by folding the paper again and again, but I want to show you a way to place odd numbers as well – like 7, or 9, which aren’t as obvious to do.


Using a grid of parallel lines, with equal distances between them (like, say, my cutting board, on the centimeters side), count 8 parts (that’s 9 lines, yes?), and stretch the paper from one edge (line 1 ) to the other (line 9), top corners (right corners in the photo) touching the lines.
 For me, my paper is a little longer than 8 centimeters, so I have to place the paper a bit diagonally.

The distances between parallel lines remain equal on a diagonal, so… make the seven middle lines on one side, turn the paper around and do the other side.

Knitting needle isn’t required, unless you’re trying to take a photo and the paper refuses to stay flat.


Once your paper is marked, wrap the paper around the ring, securing it with a piece of tape.

Transfer the marks onto the ring. You can use a fabric marker or just place pins on the fabric above the marks and be very careful stitching the first round.

I usually go for the pins, being too lazy to search for  the marker, but for your first ring, you have enough confusion going around … go for the fabric marker.

As you can see in the design above, we need a total of 8 marks, alternating between up and down sides.   place your marks and remove the paper.

no more preparation work... Next part is stitching!



tutorial - embrodered rings , part 2

welcome back ! today we'll  make the base of the ring.

 please refer to part 1 of the tutorial before you start making the base.  

Our first ring will be 0.5 inch width.   Pick up pretty embroidery threads, a fabric to match and let’s get started!


 Cut your glossy paper to strips of 0.5 inch wide. I’m using strips from a magazine cover, in the total of about 30-35 inches long (or, for me, just 2 strips).   You may need more, or less, depend on your paper.   Don’t worry about it too much – use what you have. We will test the base within 5 minutes, so not much time wasted on experimenting with different papers!


Cut your fabric strip to 1.25 inch width. Make sure you have enough fabric to go around your mold, plus a little extra.


Fold the end of your fabric inside (wrong sides in), about 0.25 inch.

Wrap the fabric around the mold, pretty side facing the mold.  Leaving 0.5 inch overlaps, cut the excess fabric off.


The next step requires at least 3 hands so make sure you have the scotch tape and the glossy paper strips ready.   Wrap the fabric tightly around the mold, without stretching it. Place a piece of tape connecting the fabric and a paper strip together in the center.  Wrap the paper around and around the mold, adding tape between strips.

Make sure there isn’t any wrinkle in the fabric and tape the end of the paper the secure it on.


Fold the sides of the fabric on the paper. Once you have the folds over nice and tight, sew big Xs (like herringbone stitches) to hold it in place.  Sew extra stitch or 2 at the overlaps, flattening it a bit.

(You can leave the thread on for the next stage)


Carefully, take the ring off the mold, and try it on. Give it a gentle squeeze, noting it’s not too soft (we don’t want it to fold), or too tough.


Place the ring back on the mold.  Wrap a bit of yarn around the ring, leaving the edges clear.  Make it as bulky, or as fine as you like.   I’m laying yarn on the whole width once, adding one more layer in the center region.

Secure the yarn in place with the needle and thread, like before.


Take your ring off the mold; verify there aren’t any wrinkles inside.

Your base is ready!